Assas-Fleurus
Gertrude Stein's address book
Everyone knows that ‘a rose is a rose is a rose’ but they don’t necessarily know that ‘sugar is not a vegetable.’ Despite working as a writer in her own right, Gertrude Stein is probably better known for her colorful remarks and expressions than any great written manuscript or treatise. A Jewish American woman living in Paris in the early 20th century, Gertrude made her mark on the expatriate social and cultural fabric through the provocative nature of her homosexual relationship with Alice Toklas and more importantly perhaps as a collector and supporter of the artists and writers who visited her Saturday night ‘Salon’.
Located around the corner from your apartment at 27, Rue de Fleurus, Gertrude and Leo Stein’s apartment saw the entertainment of artists and writers such as Picasso, Renoir, Gauguin, Cezanne, Matisse, Hemingway and Fitzgerald in the traditional manner of a French social ‘Salon.’ But just as the celebrity of the Stein Salon grew amongst artists and writers, so too did their collection of paintings. Photographs of the period show entire walls of the Rue de Fleurus apartment swallowed up by canvases.
But much as we would like to stay a while in the company of the Stein’s, this address is only one on the ‘to visit’ list in your quartier. Just a couple of blocks away at 6, Rue Ferou one finds the apartment where Earnest Hemingway lived with Pauline Pheiffer having left his wife Hadley in 1926. It was here he wrote ‘A Farewell in Arms,’ a book based on Hemingway’s own experiences as an ambulance driver during World War 1.
Meanwhile Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald stayed at 58 Rue de Vaugirard during their return to France from Delaware during the summer of 1928. By this stage, Fitzgerald had written ‘The Great Gatsby’ while Zelda who was training hard to be a ballet dancer, fell into ill mental health, the result being further damage to the couples already turbulent relationship and eventual estrangement.
At 70 bis, Rue Notre Dame des Champs, the American poet, Ezra Pound lived with his wife Dorothy Shakespeare ‘surely the most charming woman in London’ from 1921. Despite his love for Dorothy, Ezra began an illicit affair with the violinist, Olga Rudge that would last until the end of his life. Olga acted as a muse for Pound and inspired his writing of the ’Cantos.’ She was also the mother of his first child, Mary (Dorothy bore him a son, Omar, 5 months later).
As well as Left Bank café life which centered around ‘Les Deux Magots,’ ‘Café de Flore’ and ‘La Coupole’ at Montparnasse, one of the most prominent attractions for artists and writers living in this area was undoubtedly the ‘Jardin de Luxembourg.’ Built in 1625 by Marie de Medicis following the assassination of her husband Henri IV in 1610, this 6 acre park with flower beds, statuary, puppet theatre, open air concerts and shaded cafes provided the ideal nature retreat for creative reflection.
Therefore, sitting amongst the roses in the Luxembourg Gardens reading Hemmingway, Fitzgerald or Pound, you conclude that your cozy little flat located no farther that the perimeters of a swinging-cat’s whisker could not be better located. The only question that remains is one that Gertrude would pose herself; ‘Do you know because I tell you so, or do you know, do you know? It’s up to you to book the apartment and find out.
Guest Comments:
We are back home in the states now. I am writing to let you know that we had a great time in Paris and the apartment was wonderful! My wife asked me to tell you that the furnishings were beautiful.
The utensils were exactly what we needed, the washer and dryer were good, the bed nicely firm, the TV excellent, the tea with supplies a nice touch and the condition of the furnishings superb.
If you need a recommendation, you can use this or let me know so that we can give you a more complete one.
Regards,
Peter Skalak
The flat was delightful. The hot powerful shower much appreciated, the beds incredibly comfortable and the kids loved the arrangement with the sofa and truckle bed.
We quickly discovered what we all agreed were the best croissants ever in the patisserie downstairs and the situation of the flat so close not only to the Luxembourg gardens but to the playground in the Luxembourg could not have been more perfect.
All in all it was a wonderful trip and an ideal situation for both work and play. Thank you and please pass on our warmest thanks and appreciation to the owner. We are already planning our next trip to Paris!
With all best wishes and thanks
Sarah
| Building Date | Early 19th century |
| Dwelling | Rue d’Assas, 1 bedroom; 1 bath. King bed in master bedroom. Trundle bed (2 single beds) in living room; 33 square meters |
| Features | Bedroom over courtyard; fireplace, terracotta tiled floor throughout |
| Level/Security | 1st floor European. 2nd American. Elevator. High level security lock on apartment door. Interphone. |
| Neighborhood | 6th arrondissement ; Luxembourg Gardens, St. Sulpice |
| Metro | St. Sulpice (Line 4), RER B Luxembourg |
| Television | Flat Screen Plasma TV, Cable |
| Stereo | No |
| Telephone / Answering Machine | Telephone |
| Internet | Broadband internet. Wi-fi access |
| Fireplace | Yes |
| Oven | Microwave-oven combination |
| Stove | 2 burner electric stove top |
| Microwave | Yes |
| Refrigerator/Freezer | Fridge with ice-box |
| Dishwasher | No |
| Washing Machine/Dryer | Yes, washer and separate dryer |
| Bathroom | Shower stall , toilet, wash-hand basin |
| Air Conditioning | No, but very good cross ventilation. |
| Smoking Allowed? | No |
| Other Restrictions | Sleeps up to 4 (two single beds in salon) |
| Contact | Porter Scott |
| porter@iloveparisapartments.com | |
| +33 (0)6 11 30 53 57 | |
| Rates | €165 euros per night |
| Phone use not included | |
| €65 - €75
euro one-time cleaning fee The cleaning fee varies according to the number of beds used and the number of people using the apartment. |
|













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"... this time, I was going until 1 A.M., loading up my car with the following: 2 very large rectangular mirror frames, a lovely porcelain corner sink with its original faucet, an oak cabinet door, a small cheese cabinet door with its wooden grill, more carved marble mantle pieces, a large cast iron skillet, and bits and pieces of carved wood: from molding to cornices."
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